Sunday, July 11, 2010

Day 7

What are we on now? Day 7?

Well, on day 7 we got up at 7:00 AM, got the rest of our stuff packed (Last minute things) and headed downstairs for breakfast. After double and triple checking our rooms we gathered in the lobby and waited for the bus.

After about 3 hours we stopped at one of the 6 catacombs located around Rome. These were built from around the 2nd year A.D. and 300 A.D when Christianity was still illegal in Rome. There are more than 500,000 tombs in the 20km of corridors. At one point this location housed the bodies of many popes, martyrs and saints. While many of the important bodies have been moved to churches, some still remain. When the catacombs were rediscovered in the 1800’s, many of the first tombs had been ransacked. Originally, tours were run with the tombs just as they had been, but many people were taking small bones and stones as souvenirs, so the monks moved all the bodies from opened tombs to the lower levels. It was very unsettling to be 20 or so meters below ground, standing not just above floors with intact tombs, but also on top of tombs laid into the floor below us (they wanted to be close to the popes and saints). A few times I would place my hand on an open ledge and realize that for hundreds of years someone’s body lay there and I would shiver a bit. While it was certainly an educational experience I was happy to return to the Tuscan heat and the fresh air.

After another few hours and a rest stop we arrived at the picturesque Tuscan medieval town of San Gimignano. Everything appears as it did in the medieval times (1200-1400), sans electricity/signs. The first thing I did was locate an ATM because my supply of money was running dangerously low (€6 after the rest stop). The next thing I did was stand in line for the world’s best gelato (official since 2007). I got a mixture of mint, vanilla and lemon for €2.50 and it was amazing. They don’t lie when they say the best gelato in the world, the flavours blend and softly melt over your taste buds. The true sensation was really beyond accurate description. For the next hour and a half we explored the walled, beautiful town, from the little pasta shops, to the amazing vantage point of the Tuscan countryside. The entire time I was beating myself up for leaving my camera on the bus, but I am sure I can steal some other people’s pictures at some point. At one time I was really hungry and there was a heavenly smell wafting out of a small pizzeria. I bought a simple, albeit huge, slice of pepperoni pizza. I don’t lie when I say that this was the best piece of pizza I have ever tasted. The sauce and cheese was infused with an amazing myriad of spices and herbs, the tastes all blended together perfectly. After that I admired the landscape for a bit until we loaded the bus again. When I say Tuscan countryside, it is not just my own opinion that it is beautiful. In part because of its perfection in proportional mountains and in part because it was the majority of their homes, most renaissance painters used the Tuscan mountainous landscape as a backdrop for their own paintings. No matter where the picture is in the world, the mountains are that of Tuscany. In one of the panels in the Sistine Chapel, our guide pointed out that the mountains in the depiction of Israel and the mountains depicted in another painting of ancient Greece were almost identical because the painters believed that the Tuscan mountains offered the perfect proportionality between land and sky.

I must admit, to my shame, that I was not at first enthralled with Florence. We arrived at our hotel on a small, somewhat cramped street. We walked up the gravel yard to a hotel totally different from what we were expecting. Our hotel in Rome was somewhat modern, if a bit outdated in construction. It had 10 floors, 2 elevators, key cards (in fact, you had to insert your card into the wall for the lights to turn on), room service and an extensive lobby and restaurant. Our Florentine hotel was once the residence of a wealthy citizen a couple hundred years ago. It holds about 100 residents, of which we are 42. The rooms are small, fitted with a small bathroom (no shower curtain for some reason) windows which we can’t open (they will turn the A/C off for the entire building) and a small writing desk (built in minibar of course, how would Italians survive without their alcohol?). Our liaison with the hotel is a man with an Italian/Austrian accent named Francisco. Some have described him as a Nazi. Along with the rules about windows, there are strict rules regarding noise, pool behavior and presence outside of rooms. All of these are understandable, but not conducive to 37 17 year olds. We walked about 15 minutes to our dinner for the evening, a nice Italian winery and restaurant. We were served amazing spaghetti, fries, chicken and tiramisu. After this a group of us decided to head back to the hotel for the last hour or so instead of going out, as we didn’t really know the lay of the land yet. The road back smelled of garbage, was crowded and had quite a lot of graffiti. Not exactly the breathtaking city I have heard so much about.  I read some more Dante and watched the first half of The Day the Earth Stood Still (1951) before going to sleep.

5 comments:

  1. The Catacombs sound eerily awesome!
    Glad you're experiencing differences as you travel (sights, hotels, etc)!

    One question: How will you EVER be able to enjoy pizza in Brampton again?? Possibly New York's Sbarro's even pales in comparison.

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  2. ....of epic proportion

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  3. Be not ashamed young Danawan. There are dumpy sections of FLorence for sure. I remember strolling around in the city and all of a sudden finding myself in an area that was kind of scary. I think it is near the... hmmm, well I was going to say the church with the nuns but that is pretty much describing every corner eh? ANyway, you will see great sights near the centre, I just know it. I wonder if you will see the Duomo. I can't stand the painting on that ceiling! Did they tell you about the grand debate over it? Well it definitely isn't Michaelangelo is it! Most agree it is ugly but what to do? I mean how do you justify painting over it now? BUt what an amazing building.

    As for hotels, I was impressed that you had not complained in Rome already. Italy is ITaly and it can be hard to find great accomodations on a budget. The bed I slept on in Florence was made of stacks of compressed plywood by the feel of it. I hate hard mattresses but the Italians seem to love them. And we had to lug our luggage up 30 stairs before we got to the level with an elevator. The irony was this was the top rated boutique hotel in the city. BUt that is just the reality when you are in such a cool and ancient place - they can't tear everything down for convenience like we do in NOrth America. THe people were super nice though. That is also Italy for you, some of the people are sooooo nice and then just like everywhere else in the world you get your occasional NOrman Bates' innkeeper (purportedly much more common in Europe than in North America but we can't say that out loud).

    When I was there I forgot my camera at a restaurant and when I realized it to my complete dread and horror and ran back 45 minutes later, as soon as I ran in someone extended a hand that held my camera. I got it back and knew I would love this city always! FLorence has a soul young Danawan. But the weather in summer - oy - is it hot there or what?

    Ciao. P

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  4. We did see the Duomo but we didn't go inside. I do know the outside is beautiful.

    Do you know if it is customary in Europe not to have alarm clocks in the room? or do we just choose bad hotels?

    As for beds, ours haven't been too bad but the pillows are extremely thin and terrible!

    Well, the professionals were nice, but some people on the streets were very crude with some of the girls...

    Florence was amazingly hot and everyone was complaining, but for me it seemed to fit, like it wouldn't be the same if it was cooler. But yea, we were constantly sweating, we stopped noticing, we only noticed when we came on a place cool enough that we stopped sweating :P

    ciao

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