Sunday, July 18, 2010

Day 15

Day 15 was our first full day in Ravenna.

Class was in a nice air conditioned conference room in our hotel, which was nice after Florence. We started off with a seminar on Aristophanes’ Lysistrata (Λυσιστράτη). Aristophanes is the playwright that I said was the dirty one, the one that wrote about the clouds. Well, this play is much worse, thanks to this play, I know that βαδίζειν means ‘prick’ in ancient Greek. To quote, “Absolutely, by the Two Goddesses. If we sat around at home all made up, and walked past them wearing our diaphanous underwear, with our pubes plucked in a neat triangle, and our husbands got hard and hankered to ball us, but we didn’t go near them and kept away, they’d sue for peace, and pretty quick, you can count on that!”  I had never before realized that such humour was popular as long as 2500 years ago, but evidently it was. We then learned about the Roman Republic and its fall, with Sulla taking the dictatorship, then Crassus and Pompey ruling the republic alone, then with Caesar, then Caesar alone, then Cassius and Brutus warring with Octavian and Marc Antony, then Octavian attacking Marc Antony and Cleopatra, leaving Octavian (Augustus) in complete charge. It was really a tumultuous, busy time, but we didn’t go into too much detail due to time restraints. After this we had a seminar on Plato’s Phaedo (Φαιων) which was very dry and kind of boring, then we had another on Aristotle’s Poetics which was both dry and very difficult to understand.

Because we were on our own for dinner the hotel gave us free lunch which was pasta with pesto, then 2 blocks of deep fried mozzarella (like slabs of mozza sticks) for the main course.

After lunch I went over to the single computer in the town and checked email for a few minutes. I grabbed some juice and water at the grocery store and headed back to the hotel. I decided to use my free time to catch up on blogs and wrote days 10-14 that afternoon. I made myself a sandwich for dinner and then watched Citizen Kane which is argued to be the best movie ever made. I am no expert but I can say that it was an excellent movie in my opinion. After that it had cooled down outside and the sun had just set so I walked down the beach reading (for those that care, I am improving my reading while walking skill) until it got too dark to read any more. In the evening I wasn’t interested in the party going on on the beach and later on the roof/balconies so I watched Don Juan DiMarco which came with The Astronaut’s Wife in a Johnny Depp pack. It was a very funny movie, Johnny Depp plays a guy who thinks he is the “Legendary Don Juan, the greatest lover the world has ever known” except he walks through New York with his mask, cape and sword, Zorro style. He meets an aging psychiatrist (Marlon Brando) and they bond. Very funny movie, Johnny Depp and Marlon Brando, how can you go wrong?

I should also mention that I drank 2L of juice, 1L of the orange, carrot and lemon one and 1L of pear juice, 30% and 50% fruit respectively. Also 1.5L of water.

Day 14

Day 14 was another travelling day.

We finished packing last minute things and headed out for Ravenna.

The drive took about 3 hours and I read and dozed for most of it (the heat here saps a lot of your energy). Near the end I was feeling a bit down so I put on Abbey Road and it cheered me right up.

Our hotel in Ravenna is decidedly the nicest so far. The rooms are quite small, with a king and a single bed, but they are comfortably so and are meant mostly to sleep and change in, most of the time is to be spent at the beach. Our hotel comes with a private section of beach and each room gets two beach chairs and an umbrella. The sun here dwarfs the other cities’. It is unbelievably hot here, like, 5 minutes walking down the street and I sweat through my shirt. The beach is very nice, but somewhat crowded in the day. We learned fast that Ravenna, and the entire seaside really, is where the Italians come to get a vacation from the tourists so there is very little English here, at least compared to Florence and especially Rome. We also learned that there are only a few restaurants. I went out for lunch with a group for pasta and afterwards hit the grocery store for snacks, drinks and the makings for sandwiches for later. One of the drinks I grabbed I thought was orange juice but was actually an orange/carrot/lemon mix which sounded disgusting but tasted really good and I drank the whole litre in one night (200% of my daily recommended dose of vitamin C), so all of you that bugged me to be healthier, that was for you. I also learned that the only place in the entire town to get internet is a crappy pc in a café that sounds like a typewriter and costs 6 euros an hour! Communication will therefore be sporadic and short I am afraid. I spent most of the rest of my afternoon on the beach. At 7 we were invited to the weekly welcome party where there was music, food and drinks and most people ate a little too much and were too full to eat much of dinner. Dinner was penne and veal with salad, fruit, vegetable and desert buffets. After dinner I did my reading for class on the beach which was much quieter in the night.

I came back to the room and finished my reading to the sound of the Macarena coming from the patio party. There was some commotion around curfew when the teachers found that some girls had snuck a few older Italian guys into their room (they are being dealt with presently. The girls, I mean, the guys are long gone). Besides that it was a nice, quiet night.

Day 13

On to day 13, our last full day in Florence.

In class we had a seminar by Lex on The History of the Peloponnesian War by Thucydides. We then had a very interesting lesson on the beginnings of Rome and the heyday of the Republic, as well as the great expansion of Rome in its first 500 years of being.

After class I grabbed pizza and headed back to the hotel. I used the internet for a bit then headed up to pack. After packing I wasn’t sure what to do so I decided to do a bit of shopping, or at least browse more, after all, Florence is famous for its shopping along with its art. I ended up at the leather jacket store from before and I tried on a few ones. The first 2 were the typical motorcyclish ones; black, tight fitting, shiny. Then I tried on a looser, matte, dark brown one and I loved it. Seeing as this was my last chance, I needed a jacket for fall anyway and these are known to last forever, I bought it for 150 euros ($216), which is the largest single purchase I have ever made, but I think it was justified.

For dinner we went to a nice rustic Tuscan restaurant with beautiful art everywhere. After dinner I decided I may as well go out on the town with everyone seeing as it was my last night in Florence. We explored around the city and found it is quite different at night. We met quite a few groups on trips like ours (a lot of them were college age), most of them out for a drink. We passed through the Piazza della Signoria where a youth orchestra was playing amongst the statues, and then in the Piazza San Lorenzo there was a jazz band playing in a little gazebo, which was cool. At one point we met a group from Hungary and I had a rough conversation with them in half English, half Hungarian. At the end of the night we ended up at a gelateria where we ate gelato with a Norwegian boy who looked about 13, but was probably about 15 or 16 who was sipping away coolly at his third champagne sized glass of Absolut Vodka. The fact that he was treating it like water alone was astonishing, but the fact that he could carry on a fully intelligent conversation in a language not native to his was unbelievable. We tried to catch his name, but it sounded like Kshglaus. So after about 3 tries we just called him Laus and bid him goodnight before heading back to the hotel. We had a grace period before we had to be in our room so we hung out in the hall, ate snacks and vandalized each other’s arms and legs with a sharpie. It was quite a bonding moment. After curfew I fell asleep fairly fast, despite the infernal air conditioner.    

Day 12

Day 12. First of all I am going to stop talking about waking up, showering and eating breakfast because that really doesn’t change from day to day so I’ll jump straight to class.

Our principal secured us a conference room in a nearby hotel so we walked there at 8:15 for class. We began class with my 30 minute seminar on Sophocles’ Antigone (technically Аντιγονη) which was a surprisingly engaging for a 2500 year old play. I got the class to do an activity then lead a philosophical debate about the nature of laws and such. We continued the class with a lesson on the Hellenistic revolution (Alexander the Great) and the subsequent end of Classical Greece. Jam then gave his seminar on Heroditus (Ηροδότον) and his account of the Persian Wars. After class I learned that I got 90% on my seminar. My teacher made everyone a proposition that if we took a second seminar he would average the marks, and then add 10% of the average to the mark. For example, if I got 90 on the first and 70 on the second, the average is 80, +10% is 88. I decided to take on a second one (The Aeneid by Virgil) because, by my calculations, as long as I got 74% or higher my 90% would increase.

For lunch I headed to the café with Ty and Lex (Two of the other guys) and had a pizza burger on a pita, which was messy but very good. After that we hurried back in order to make it in time to load the bus for Pisa.  The bus ride took about an hour and a half, some of which I dozed for. Once there we realized that there was nothing but a nice church, the leaning tower and tons and tons of cheap touristy things as well as quite a few African guys trying to sell us “authentic designer sunglasses” out of cardboard boxes. After our 45 minute visit we loaded up the bus again and headed back for another hour and a half. I know you can’t do Italy and not see the leaning tower of Pisa, but it really is not much more than a tourist trap.

Dinner was pretty much right after Pisa. The day before we had had an unexpected addition to our group: Georgia Hardy, the woman who started the company that runs our tour. She stayed with us until we left Florence, then she was staying with another group that was coming into Florence the day we left, and then going to France to meet up with yet another trip. She accompanied us to lunch and then stayed and chatted in the common room afterwards. After dinner I used the hotel internet (they finally relented) and finished my second travel journal (the description of David from the day before). After curfew I finished (500) Days of Summer which turned out to be an outstanding movie.

Day 11

I shall skip the banalities of the typical morning for Day 11. After breakfast we had our second optional excursion (After the Vatican). This was to the two main art galleries in Florence: the Academia and Uffizi. Academia used to be an art school and still is in part, but its main attraction is Michelangelo’s famous sculptures, most prominently David, but also St. Matthew and the Prisoners.

Michelangelo was a strange man. He was apparently unattractive, scrawny and amazingly moody. During his time, sculptures were made using a certain process. 1. The sculpture is commissioned. 2. The sculptor thinks and makes some concept drawings. 3. The sculptor molds a 6” model using wax. 4. A 4’ model would then be made using clay for more detail. 5. A full scale plaster model was made with the help of a team. 6. The sculptor leaves for another project while his team of students carves the sculpture out of marble. When it is carved, it is started on all sides, so if a mistake is made, they can just make it smaller using the same rock. Michelangelo threw almost all of this out the window. He would be commissioned to make a sculpture. He would sometimes make a wax model, seldom anything larger and not often even that. He would then set away carving alone. Instead of carving all around evenly, he would carve out all of the details from the front and work around, this made it easier for him to picture the work, but one false chisel and the very expensive piece of stone you have been carving for years is trash. The average sculptor alone would finish a full sized sculpture in 3-4 years. Michelangelo finished David in 2 years, with it being the largest sculpture ever seen at 17’ tall. In the room with David are St. Matthew which is unfinished and shows how exactly he carved his sculptures and the Prisoners which appear to be 5 unfinished sculptures showing souls escaping bodies in death. It has been speculated that perhaps these Prisoners were left unfinished on purpose to show the humans breaking free of the rock like souls breaking free of the body. Either way, they are not the focus of the gallery, David is. I had to write a piece describing David for class and just got it back with a very good mark, so I think I will paste it and hopefully do David at least some justice in my description.

One of the most, if not the most, striking thing I have seen so far on this trip is Michelangelo’s David.  While I had some expectations due to all I had heard about it, nothing compared to what I found inside the Academia. I am somewhat saddened in writing this because I know no matter how hard I try; I can never relate the complete effect of David into words. No matter, it is my prerogative to do my best to that end, and at least attempt to describe David and his effect on me. Before visiting the Academia I had always referred to David (On the few occasions when I felt the need to mention him) as “The David” or “Michelangelo’s David”. At this point I viewed David as simply a sculpture. Perhaps he was an exceptional example of sculpture, and renaissance art in general, but still in essence merely a monolith carved in the figure of a man. Since admiring him, I now find myself subconsciously referring to David as a person. Again, I find that words do not avail me in this endeavor. It is a gross understatement to say that David appears to be human. At very least he seems the perfect human, proportioned perfectly (when viewed from the intended angle of course), anatomically correct in any way, tension distributed just so in order to show us his intentions. 


As I learned from our passionate tour guide, David reveals himself to viewers not all at once, but differently from different angles. To paraphrase, “Every time I enter this hall, I see standing at the end a roman god, poised in a posture exuding perfection and power.” When you move closer this godlike façade fades to reveal a truly human David. His abdominals seem so realistic that you can see the tension spread across in the torque of his body, you can see the veins sprawling across his hands and neck and his face is depicted so realistically that you half believe he will turn his head and address you. As you move off to David’s left you once again experience a wholly different view. From this vantage point we can see the biblical inspiration. Transcending that, we see what Michelangelo was striving to show us.  In David’s face we see a complicated set of emotions, an underlying fear overpowered by faith and sheer determination. As our guide demonstrated, if you follow the biblical story of David and Goliath up to the point that you are viewing, that is, immediately after David replies to Goliaths challenge and prepares to launch his sling, knowing that the will of God is behind his swing, you can fully appreciate the expression that David exudes. It is not only his face that shows us this, but his posture as well; back straight, head up, moving forward undaunted in the presence of this giant. Personally, this angle struck me the hardest. The determination flowing from David seemed to bore right to my core, as if it was me he was challenging instead of Goliath. The next position doesn’t so much show a new David, but expands on his humanity and determination while showing admirers a new level to Michelangelo’s genius. This is the view of David from behind. According to our guide, a renowned professor of anatomy marveled at how never before had he witnessed such a perfect example of anatomy anywhere but his textbook. We can see here just how David has prepared himself for the launching of his sling. His shoulders are flexed, his back torqued and his legs taught, almost seeming spring loaded. Here also we can see what part engineering played in the creation of David. Apparently if David’s left leg was in a slightly different position, he would not be able to stand without falling forward. This is just an example of how much thought and calculation went into every part of David. The final view of David is of his right side. If you can picture him, he is focused away from you in the other direction. When I see this I imagine the part he played in society when he was created. He was a mascot of sorts for Florence. He protected the people and gave a message to all others not to pick a fight with the city, for they are protected by higher powers. 

In conclusion, while some works of art are able to show aspects of science, religion, history, symbolism, and true beauty, few, if any, show such a perfect combination of all of these as David. Not only is that alone amazing, but it is more than 17 feet tall, all carved by one man alone with no model in a style that meant ruination from one misplaced chisel. If nothing else in the world is, David is an example of true genius. 


While somewhat more formal than I usually write here, I think it was better that I paste that than trying to describe David all over again. After David I quickly visited the gallery of music showcasing some of the world’s first pianos and quite a few original violins by Stradivarius.

After the Academia we visited the Uffizi gallery which was formerly the private art collection of a very prominent Florentine family. It contains many Roman and Greek statues as well as some of the most famous paintings in the world. We were exhausted by this point so our tour guide gave us the condensed tour, showing us how Italian and specifically Florentine art evolved during the Renaissance. We started with a 13th century painting of Mary and the baby Jesus in Byzantine style with a golden background, golden halos, adult faces and disproportionate sizes (Jesus was much larger than a baby). This was meant to assert divinity over humanity and was the standard for all art of the time. We moved through the galleries watching the slow evolution of painting, from the more humanized views, to the first secular paintings (portrait of the Duke of Urbino), to some pagan figures in art (Birth of Venus), to the beginning of sexual imagery (Venus of Urbino) and showcasing the only two Da Vinci paintings left in Florence as well as the only surviving painting by Michelangelo in the world (the Vatican is a fresco and uses different methods than a painting), finally ending with a 17th century work depicting the baby Jesus, as the first did, but this time it is almost blasphemously human; Mary has just finished feeding Jesus and is covering her breast while Jesus yawns and places his hand on his genitals. After this journey through the renaissance we passed a showcase of Caravaggio, showing the Medusa which actually gave me chills. Caravaggio took realism to a new level, calling it naturalism. He believed that not all figures should be presented perfectly, but naturally. For example, if a model had a scar, or dirty fingernails, or a fruit had a bruise, he would paint it as it appeared. Apparently he would attend public executions and study the expressions on the beheaded face before painting Medusa.

 After the museums we grabbed some lunch and met for class outside again. We got two sample seminars from our teacher on Homer and Hesiod. We also studied some more particulars on Classical Greek life and major people. Dinner was at a similar restaurant with similar (but amazing, of course) food. After dinner Jam (a different guy, haven’t mentioned him yet) and I prepared for our seminars (both of us were the next day) at the café. After curfew I read a bit and watched some of (500) Days of Summer which was a very good movie.

Day 10

Sorry for not posting in so long, there has just been a string of work and stuff going on. I am going to try and catch up tonight, but I may have to finish tomorrow (on the beach!).

So, day… 10? Si, Day 10. I am going to come home and say random Italian words by accident…

Anyway…

Monday morning started like Florence mornings typically would. I would wake up grumpily (Air conditioner), shower and schlep downstairs for the meager breakfast of a pastry (croissantish thing with sweet filling), some meat and cheese and a crappy cappuccino. For all its charm, the hotel amenities could be better. We then went out in the yard (it hadn’t begun to heat up yet, thank god) for class. Our class snagged the tables in the shade; the other classes had to use the lawn and the tables in the sun.  Our class focused on philosophy and Socrates in general. Of all our classes, this one probably had the most profound effect on me and made me self-reflect and examine my thoughts a lot in the following few days. After the class we had a test on the Greek myths we presented on. The test was 2 questions long: write a summary of three myths, write an essay explaining how historians can use myths as an accurate source. I ended up getting an 86% on it, so I was satisfied. After class I grabbed a slice of pizza and headed to the internet café to email and download some web pages for my upcoming seminar on Sophocles’ Antigone.

I made it back to the hotel for 1:30 in order to go to the leather market with the class. We haggled a deal to get about 20% off all purchases at a certain pair of leather stores; one purse store and one jacket store. I looked around the jacket store for a bit without the intention of buying anything, then watched as the girls went crazy over the purses and wallets. After that bit I headed back instead of moving on to the belt and tie stalls of the street market because I needed to do laundry badly. I gathered up everything and headed down to the Laundromat. There I realized I forgot my detergent at the hotel and tried to buy some from the dispenser. The instructions were in Italian so it took me 5 euros to finally get the 2 euro sample of detergent. I got everything in the washer and then decided to explore some streets and find some of the cool graffiti I’d seen around. Florence is filled with graffiti, most of it is just tags and such, but every once in a while there are some cool ones. One set of three I found on Via San Gallo (they appear to be the same handwriting) The first one seems to be from an Italian pop song “Apriro Il Giardino, Quando Tornerai” (Open the garden when I return), the second is my favourite “Niente di particolare, a parte il fatto che mi manchi!!” (Nothing special apart from the fact that I miss you!!) and the last one is very straightforward and obviously from the heart “Siculamente… Ti amo!” (Sicilian… I love you!). There were some other ones I found and this became a sort of hobby of mine in Florence. I was back a few minutes before my load was done and read Dante for the rest of the time as well as through the dryer cycles. After the second 10 minute cycle not all the clothes were completely dry but I was out of coin and coming close to dinner time. So I headed back to the hotel and hung up the really wet clothes.

We had dinner at a nice Tuscan place not far from the hotel (typical pasta, meat, dessert) and I headed back and watched a movie and prepared for my seminar.

Not a very exciting day but I had to include it anyway, just to ease those troubled minds that worried about the state of my clean underwear supply.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Just a Notice

Hey all,
Just want to let you know that I fixed it so that anyone can comment now (:

Though it is a good idea to get a Google account, it can be a lifesaver